Practicing Stained Glass Lead Safety

 

When is Lead Exposure a Concern?

Lightly handling a finished piece of leaded stained glass does not cause a dangerous level of exposure, although hands should be thoroughly washed after doing so to prevent the transfer of lead particles to food, or to the face, or to anywhere else that may result in their being ingested. Extra precaution should also be taken to keep leaded stained glass out of the reach of children, since their version of “lightly handling” sometimes includes chewing or licking, which definitely can cause dangerous levels of exposure. In general, stained glass pieces within the home are perfectly safe as long as they’re treated as art and not playthings.

The greatest risk of stained glass lead exposure occurs during the creation process, when bare lead is handled extensively and fine lead dust particles are created through abrasive activities.

Unlike customers who only handle stained glass occasionally, artists who create such pieces regularly must take serious precautionary measures within their studio to prevent chronic lead exposure.

 

What are the Effects of Chronic Lead Exposure?

According to OSHA (The Occupational Safety and Health Administration), chronic lead exposure is associated with “impaired kidney function, high blood pressure, nervous system and neurobehavioral effects, cognitive dysfunction,” and a whole slew of other maladies that increase in severity with the level of exposure. Chronic ingestion of lead particles is particularly insidious because instead of being flushed through the body, these particles are stored within the bones where they accumulate and are eventually released very slowly back into the bloodstream and soft tissue organs long after exposure has ceased (as fully detailed by the CDC (The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention)). This means that once buildup has occurred, there’s no way to remove it short of intense medical intervention (e.g. chelation therapy).

This is all of course terribly frightening information if you currently have entire spools of the aforementioned killer metal sitting in your workshop and handle it on a regular basis. Fortunately, there are several preventative measures* glassworkers can implement within their studios to allow for the safe use of lead.

 

*Note that many of the preventative measures listed below are worth implementing in non-leaded glass studios as well, as they protect against exposure to multiple contaminants besides lead, including glass dust and chemical fumes.

 

Best Practices to Minimize Lead Exposure

1. Install Proper Ventilation

Ideally, all stained glass studios should include a ventilator situated above the workspace that pulls air upward and away from the artist’s face, and then redirects that air outside. For leaded glass studios, this ventilator should also be fitted with a HEPA (High Efficiency Particulate Air) filter to trap lead particles within the airflow and prevent them from escaping. Any procedures that generate lead dust particles (e.g. using abrasives on solder seams, sawing lead came, etc.) should be conducted within close range of the ventilator*.

Installing a kitchen range hood over the work surface is one of the most widely used methods in professional studios and workshops to achieve ventilation necessary to remove lead dust, glass dust, and chemical fumes. Unfortunately, hooded ventilation systems can be expensive and difficult to install, especially if your studio is in a small apartment or other residential space.

 
 

A less ideal, but more convenient option in small studio spaces may be to use a HEPA-filtered air purifier* to extract lead dust particles from the room.

A white HEPA air purifier in a stained glass studio

The HEPA-filtered air purifier I run in my studio

 
 

*HEPA-grade filters are capable of removing 99.97% of airborne particles with a size of 0.3 microns or larger. Lead dust particles range in size from 0.1 - 0.7 microns, which means a HEPA filter alone may not capture 100% of them. See Best Practice #11 below for information on higher efficiency filters.

- Be aware that a standard desk fan is not suitable ventilation for lead dust particles; this may blow them away from your face for a time, but it just transfers them to another section of your studio.

 
 
 

 
 

2. Wear a Respirator

 

The 3M respirator with P100 particulate filters that I wear while abrading lead. Be aware that fume filters do not perform the same function as particulate filters.

 

Avoid inhaling dust particles while abrading lead by wearing a respirator with P100 particulate filters installed. A P100 rating is the highest level of personal respiratory protection (it has the same filtering capability as the HEPA filters discussed in Best Practice #1 above).

Respirators are available in different sizes, and usually have adjustable straps.

An accurate fit is critical to ensure they sit snugly against the face and create a particle-proof seal.

It’s also important to replace the filter cartridges regularly (either after the recommended time period as noted by the manufacturer or when they become so filled with debris that they’re difficult to breathe through). To extend their life, cartridges should be stored in a airtight bag or container when not in use.

Solder does not vaporize into airborne lead particles at typical stained glass soldering temperatures (lead’s boiling point is 3180°F), so there is no concern of inhaling particles during this activity. However, a respirator with fume filters should still be worn while soldering to protect from the dangerous vapors given off by evaporating flux.

 
 

- Be aware that although they’re cheaper, disposable respirators don’t provide the same level of face seal as reusable ones.

 
 
 

 
 

3. Perform Wet Abrasion

Similar to how grinders maintain constant waterflow across their bits to prevent glass dust particles from becoming airborne, abrasive surfaces used to saw, scratch, or polish lead should also be kept wet throughout the abrading process to prevent lead dust particles from flying about. This can be accomplished by using a wet saw (if cutting), or by keeping the lead immersed in liquid while rubbing an abrasive against its surface (if scratching or polishing).

When abrading the solder or lead seams of small stained glass pieces (commonly done to prep the metal for patina application or to impart a shiny luster), the entire piece should be placed in a shallow basin of liquid (water, cleaning solution, etc.) filled just enough to cover its surface. An abrading tool (wire brush, scrubby sponge, steel wool, etc.) can then be used to scratch the lead seams to the desired level.

If the glass piece is too large to reasonably fit in a basin, liquid can instead be continually dripped or sprayed on to its surface throughout the abrasion process.

 
 

- Be aware that any basins used to hold liquid or cloths used to dry the glass piece should not afterward be cleaned in a dishwasher or a washing machine along with other dishes or clothes as this will contaminate those items with lead particles; see Best Practices #5 & #11 below for information on proper de-leading cleaning methods.

 
 
 

 
 

4. Wear Gloves

Although there appears to be debate as to whether lead particles can be absorbed through the skin (according to the CDC, “the quantitative significance of the dermal absorption pathway as a contributor to [lead] body burden in humans remains an uncertainty” as per the Toxicological Profile for Lead), I personally feel it’s better to be safe than sorry in this case.

 

There is definitely no debate that lead particles can enter the skin through open wounds, even the tiny papercut-like ones glassworkers often sustain, sometimes without their realizing it.

Gloves should be worn whenever handling lead came or solder to prevent lead particles from entering the body via wounds or skin absorption.

Additionally, since lead particles can easily be transferred to the mouth from other parts of the face, glassworkers should take the utmost care not to touch their head, neck, hair, etc. while working with lead.

Wearing disposable gloves as I fit lead came segments between the pieces of a stained glass pet portrait

 
 

 
 

5. Designate a Uniform

 

A fashionable (?) jumpsuit from Free People that I’ve designated as one of my studio uniforms

 

To further restrict lead contamination, glassworkers should decide on a specific outfit and pair of footwear to don in the studio, and only in the studio, while performing leadwork. This way, any toxic lead particles that get stuck to clothing won’t be transferred to the car, the home, or loved ones. To provide maximum protection, the clothes worn in the studio should cover as much of the body as possible.

An ideal studio uniform should include a high-necked, long-sleeved top, long pants, and closed-toe shoes.

It’s prudent to actually choose at least two outfits in order to wash one while still being able to work.

Studio uniforms must be cleaned separately from non-studio clothing to avoid contaminating an entire load of laundry with lead particles. It’s also necessary to use special de-leading detergent when washing these items since standard detergent can’t break down the electrostatic bonds that cause heavy metal particles to stick tightly to fabrics and fibers.

As an extra precaution (or for those that insist upon wearing the same footwear both inside and outside of the studio) a de-leading sticky mat can be placed at the doorstep of the workshop to trap particles from shoe soles as they enter and exit.

 
 

- Be aware that there are specific steps required to thoroughly clean the washer and dryer after completing a contaminated load, and to test both machines for lead prior to washing any non-studio clothing.

 
 
 

 
 

6. Don’t Eat or Drink

Since ingestion of lead dust is the primary way in which these toxic particles enter and wreak havoc within the body, food and drink should never be brought into the studio.

Even unopened consumables are a risk, since lead particles can stick to their wrappers or containers and be transferred to the hands or food itself when they’re opened. This also applies to any items that may go near or in the mouth, even if they’re not technically food, such as:

  • Chewing gum

  • Chapstick/lipstick

  • Cigarettes/vape pens/pipes

 
 

 
 

7. Minimize Phone Use

Part of my frustration with the trend toward video that social media has taken over the last several years is that it’s extremely inconducive to leaded stained glass studio safety. Since phones are constantly handled and held up to the face, they should be kept out of the studio as much as possible to minimize their likelihood of collecting lead particles.

 

Of course, in today’s day and age it’s not entirely reasonable for glassworkers to shun their cell phones for hours on end.

If a cell phone absolutely must be brought into the studio, it should be thoroughly rubbed with de-leading wipes after use and kept in an airtight container when not in use.

Glassworkers that consistently film or photograph their processes may consider investing in a camera or phone exclusively for in-studio use. This is an excellent way to utilize an old phone after buying a new one (decidedly more worthwhile than the insultingly low fee cellular companies offer to buy it back for).

The de-leading wipes I use to clean my phone and other surfaces within my studio

 
 

 
 

8. Ban All Pets

As cute as they are, pets should never be allowed in a stained glass studio. Aside from their being likely to step on or slurp up small glass shards, they can also act as furry dust traps that transfer lead dust particles out of the studio and all throughout the home. Also, lead poisoning is just as toxic to them as it is to us!

 
 

 
 

9. Wash Your Hands

As mentioned earlier in Best Practice #5, lead particles are “sticky,” meaning they bind to skin and other surfaces with a strong electrostatic bond and are not always removed completely with common household cleaners.

Because of lead’s strong binding abilities, it’s essential to wash the hands, arms, neck, and face with a specially formulated de-leading soap after performing leadwork or when leaving the glass studio.

Completely removing lead particles also requires a longer and more intense lather than typical hand washing. Most de-leading soap manufacturers recommend scrubbing for 20-30 seconds while also using a fingernail brush to flush particles from underneath the nails.

After performing any type of lead-abrading activities that may have generated airborne particles, it’s also necessary to shower immediately afterward using both de-leading body wash and de-leading shampoo to remove lead dust from the entire body* (glassworkers may also consider wearing a showercap or similar disposable hair cover during leadwork if shampooing isn’t an option).

 

The de-leading soap I use to wash my hands, arms, face, and neck every time I leave my studio

The de-leading body wash/shampoo I use after lead-abrading activities

 
 
 

*ESCA-Tech (manufacturer of D-Lead® products) provides highly detailed instructions on full-body washing techniques to remove lead.

 
 
 

 
 

10. Be Aware of Lead-Bearing Glasses

Although several are highly toxic to humans, metal oxides are essential ingredients for creating colored glass, which means that certain glass sheets are actually infused with significant concentrations of lead, depending on their shade. Fortunately, (when glass is purchased from a reputable manufacturer) these concentration levels are so low that the glass can be handled safely with bare hands. However, if food comes into extended contact with the these glass surfaces, there is risk that the lead (or other toxic metals) may leach into it.

Glass pieces made to hold food (plates, bowls, cups, etc.) should be created such that no highly concentrated lead-bearing glass or metal comes into contact with the food when the piece is in use.

It follows that these types of pieces should never be made with lead came or traditional solder, and only with glasses that have acceptably low and verifiable concentration levels of toxic metal oxides. Bullseye Glass provides a food safety data sheet that specifies which of its glass sheets contain more than 1.0% lead or more than 0.5% cadmium (a fellow metal oxide toxic for human ingestion). Oceanside Glass & Tile also provides safety data sheets for its glasses, indicating the concentration levels of metal oxides contained in each.

 

There is a workaround available for this issue for those with access to a kiln:

Glass of high metal concentration can be capped with glass of low metal concentration in order to create a food-safe barrier. This is most easily done with a clear or transparent-colored cap layer that will closely maintain the color of the base layer glass underneath.

A sheet of Bullseye Pink Opalescent glass, containing more than 1.0% lead

A sheet of Bullseye Clear Transparent glass, made without lead

As a related best practice for business, any non-food-safe product that could be easily misused to hold food (such as a dish or plate meant solely as art or meant to hold non-food items) should be listed for sale with an explicit customer-facing statement that it is not suitable for such function.

 
 

 
 

11. Clean Regularly

Even if there are no dust-generating activities currently taking place within a stained glass studio, it’s still possible for previously-generated lead particles sitting on surfaces to be stirred up, blown about the room, and inhaled or ingested. To prevent this, a studio should be thoroughly cleaned on a regular basis, and especially following the creation of lead dust.

Instead of dry sweeping or dusting, which kicks up dust particles into the air, cleaning should take place via wet wiping, mopping, or vacuuming to keep lead particles contained.

All surfaces that may be exposed to lead dust should be wiped down regularly, including not only work tables on which lead is manipulated, but also any nearby tools and materials as well as any surrounding walls, windows, and doors. As with the body and laundry-cleaning methods mentioned earlier, special de-leading solutions (such as this cleaner concentrate) must also be used for surfaces. These can be applied with a sponge, mop, or sprayer, and then wiped away with a clean cloth.

 

The H-Class filter vacuum I use to regularly clean my studio

 

Some vacuums can be equipped with H-Class filters*, which are particularly efficient, being able to trap 99.995% of airborne particles with a size of 0.3 microns or larger (as compared to the 99.97% of a standard HEPA filter). H-Class filters are specifically designed to trap the tiniest, most hazardous dust particles from things like asbestos, mold, and lead (which can be as small as 0.1 microns).

Such a low percentage difference may not seem critical, but H-Class filters are industry-standard (industry-required in some cases) in fields that involve repeated hazardous dust exposure. Personally, I don’t believe one can ever be too safe when it comes to avoiding risks associated with lead dust.

Surfaces within leaded stained glass studios should be periodically checked with test kits to validate that they’ve been adequately cleaned and are free of lead residue. It’s also helpful to perform frequent testing when de-leading a space for the first time in order to ensure correct cleaning techniques are being used.

 
 

*Although they seem to be readily available in Europe and Australia, affordable vacuums with H-Class filters are extraordinarily difficult to find in the US (I haven’t been able to determine why this is; perhaps something to do with the difference in safety regulation strictness between countries?).

- Be aware that carpeted studios are much more difficult to clean adequately, as the fibrous surface traps lead particles much more effectively than a hard floor.

- Be aware that any cloths or other cleaning equipment used to de-lead a space should not be used for cleaning anywhere else in order to prevent cross-contamination.

 
 
 

 
 

12. Get Tested

The best way to ensure that lead particles are being adequately contained and removed from a stained glass studio is for the people working within it to get their blood lead levels tested regularly. For casual hobbyists this could done on a yearly basis, while for full-time professionals it may require testing every three to four months; the frequency depends upon how often and to what extent leadwork is performed.

Most general physicians can incorporate a blood lead level (BLL) test into a yearly checkup’s bloodwork panel, and one-off testing can be easily coordinated through third party labs like Quest Diagnostics.

The CDC’s BLL safety guidelines (as of April, 2023) indicate that blood lead levels of 3.5 µg/dL or above are a health risk and require treatment. If this threshold is reached, it’s important to identify the source of lead exposure, either remove it or properly contain it (perhaps using the best practices outlined here), and then continue testing regularly until the BLL drops back to normal.

Unfortunately, due to the industrious nature of humanity, trace amounts of lead can be found in a multitude of everyday necessities, including drinking water, food, soil, cosmetics, medicine, and plastics. In fact, the average BLL of U.S. adults is about 0.855 µg/dL, so even after implementing flawless lead exposure methods within the stained glass studio, it may still be possible to regularly ingest a very small amount of lead depending upon one’s environment. Although that’s certainly not ideal, most healthy adults can withstand such low exposure without serious health impacts.

 
 

 
 

13. Get Your Vitamins

According to the CDC, eating a “diet high in calcium, zinc, vitamin C and iron” may help keep lead from building up in the body. Such nutrients aren’t cures for lead exposure, but when ingested consistently they can help to ensure the body absorbs as little lead as possible.

There are many in-depth articles that explain the biological mechanisms of lead ingestion, but to summarize:

The body confuses lead particles for calcium, and thus transmits them to vulnerable areas (the brain, bones, blood, etc.) where they interfere with vital processes. If the body already contains adequate amounts of calcium and other nutrients when lead is ingested, it will accordingly absorb less of the lead.

 

Fortunately, nutrients that help offset lead absorption are found in many common foods*:

  • Calcium is in milk, yogurt, cheese, and green leafy vegetables like spinach.

  • Iron is in red meats, beans, and peanut butter.

  • Vitamin C is in oranges and green/red peppers.

  • Zinc is in meat, fish, and oysters.

Although it’s almost always more effective to get vitamins and minerals from whole foods, sometimes it’s not possible to do so consistently. Personally, I use the Cronometer app to track what I eat (I’m a health nut in regard to more than just lead safety), and on days I don’t get enough key nutrients from my diet, I take supplements to obtain the minimum recommended amount.

The app I use to track my dietary intake along with some vitamins/minerals I supplement with

 
 

*Interestingly, some studies have concluded that garlic alone, and garlic in combination with silymarin (milk thistle extract) may combat certain cases of lead poisoning just as effectively as therapeutic drugs (e.g. Findings by Sina Kianoush et al., and Findings by Iman A. El-Khishin et al.).

 
 
 

 
 

14. Consider Going Lead-Free

As a last resort, lead alloys used in the creation of stained glass can be swapped for lead-free versions, with the caveat that these substitutes don’t produce quite the same desirable looks and behaviors as the originals.

Lead-free solder (typically made from some combination of tin, copper, silver, nickel, and zinc) can be used in place of traditional leaded solder.

The downsides of this swap are that:

  • Lead-free solder doesn’t flow nearly as well as leaded solder, so there’s a steep learning curve (and it may not even be possible to achieve the same degree of perfectly smooth, even beads).

  • Lead-free solder has a higher melting point than leaded solder, which results in a shorter soldering iron tip life (around 4 to 5 times shorter, according to Hakko).

  • Lead-free solder doesn’t accept patinas as well as leaded solder, often turning a duller version of the desired color.

For outer framing, channels made from copper, zinc, or brass can be used in place of traditional lead came.

The negatives of this interchange are that:

  • These metals are much less malleable than lead, so they typically require special tools to bend or cut, as opposed to the simple combination of hands and a sharp knife that can manipulate traditional lead came.

  • These metals don’t accept patinas as well as lead, often turning a duller version of the desired color or appearing splotchy.

 
 

- Be aware that many metals are toxic to human ingestion, so incorporating any of the above lead alternatives into stained glass pieces still needs to be done in conjunction with proper precautions.

 
 
 

 
 

Video Demo of My Studio’s Lead Exposure Prevention Practices

 

Watch how I implement these lead safety practices within my studio!

 

Comprehensive List of Sources & Products Referenced in This Post

 

A friendly reminder that I share details of my creation processes with the intent of empowering people with knowledge and techniques that may help them reach their full creative potential, not with the intent of enabling other artists to recreate my pieces. All of my designs are protected by copyright and are illegal to reproduce, reuse, or republish without my permission under any circumstances.

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